lily.s 的阿式攀登起点—龙脊峰
本帖最后由 lily.s 于 2012-10-19 08:39 编辑3楼板凳帖子转自同行绳队队长 攀登龙脊峰归来已经十余天了，成都、映秀、雪山…
每个片段都还记忆犹新…
不到一个月间的抓紧练习 （接触攀岩，到第一次野攀.9先锋、第二次结组+大岩壁，
感谢绳队队友的授教与帮助！得以启程）
手机拍↓9月28日，离京前1天
被所谓小红帽在检票员的阻挡下硬是给推进了站台！一人提前先进站
亲眼看到并尝到四川火锅（话说没一点辣味儿
第一次见到这么多的小区上都长有植被
映秀
去往小金（堵车中...
堵车不忘得瑟 嘿嘿绳队3人： lily.s、海阔天空 、 山民
4年多前的遗迹...
海拔4481 人生新高度无任何不适哈哈狂吃最爱的土豆！
抵达
入住的牧民杨哥家
喜欢的色彩
回成都，深夜在路上 思念家人的心情已持续1周
登巴客栈 屋内 抬头看到 ： 你原本充满自由！
串串（放N多辣椒，还是差点儿味儿，有点高估四川的辣椒了{:4_114:}
本帖最后由 lily.s 于 2012-10-18 13:46 编辑
卡片机拍↓
晨起
想...
打小就专挑不好走的路的俺在前面狂走那个开心
回头壮阔、惊艳~
到睡觉点儿了，困~ 但还要坚持晚睡！（以免高反
本帖最后由 lily.s 于 2012-10-19 08:37 编辑
转自绳队队长山民（欧蓝德）游记
国庆自主攀登日果冷觉雪山
川西飞雪染群峰，日果耸立蜀山中。 结组探寻龙脊路，天公作梗梦成空。 同甘共苦众志诚，自主登山心放松。 待得一季苦练后，轻装快速再攀登。
阿尔卑斯式登山是一种不依赖他人，完全或主要靠登山者自身力量从事攀登各种山峰的登山活动。系欧洲阿尔卑斯山区登山运动的早期活动形式。二十世纪二十年代后逐渐为金字塔形兵站式登山所取代。七十年代以来得以恢复和发展。其实阿尔卑斯式攀登并没有严格的定义，但它通常是指在高山的环境之下，以个人或两三人的小队攀登雪山，凭借轻便的装备以及快速的行进速度前进。在中途不靠外界的补给；也不需要架设固定绳索和反复地上升下降来适应高度与补给物资，一鼓作气爬上山顶并且平安回来，若是不能登顶就折返下撤。这是我最崇尚的运动，因为它在最大程度上体现了公平、自主、自由的攀登精神，
对参与者的综合能力也有着很高的要求。自从今年5月，正式接受两位阿式登山高手大石、北斗之邀，决定分两个绳组从不同路线攀登位于四川阿坝州的日果冷觉雪山（龙脊峰）后，便和搭档海阔天空同学全身心的投入到了策划当中。进行了大量诸如：熟悉路线、海拔、攀登难度，判断结组和保护方式，采购技术装备等繁琐而又不乏细致的工作！但有一个问题，始终困扰着我们，那就是还缺少一个优秀的搭档。因为从我们的计划的攀登路线来看，C1到C2营地，要结组经过一个布满冰裂缝的陡峭雪坡，三人结组的安全性远远高于两人结组。可是要在短期内找到一个时间、经验、体力和心理素质都过硬的搭档绝非易事！正当我们四处寻觅之时，一个偶然的机会，在岩馆结识了Lily(按本人习惯的称呼，以下简称“莉莉”），通过几次活动，发现这个看似瘦弱、娇气的小姑娘却有着坚韧不拔的精神，再加上充沛的体力、过硬的心理素质以及很好的的适应能力，我和搭档海阔天空观察后一致认为：经验方面的欠缺可以通过高强度的训练来尽量完善，心理素质才是最重要的。于是小姑娘成为了我们绳队中新的一员！人员确定后，就是艰苦的训练了：从绳索、登山器材的操作到大岩壁的多段攀登，从各种保护装置的设置，到三人结组的登山练习，周末两天野外，平时岩馆，每周如此！一边训练，一面便是在期盼中焦急的等待，9月29日在朋友的祝愿和家人的嘱托中，我们踏上了南下的列车，之后的旅程，我就不罗哩罗嗦的码那么多字了，上照片!
我的部分装备，这些可都要自己背着！两个搭档的家当也一点不比我少！
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国庆黄金周一票难求，北京-成都31小时的硬座算是对意志的初步考验吧！
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到达成都，经过短暂的休整后，容光焕发的我们与另一绳队的大石、北斗还有观光团成员汇合
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10月2日，两车9人一早开拔，出门不利，在映秀遭遇7小时的堵车后翻越海拔4481米的巴郎山口，晚上十点多到达我们此次登山的起点--向花村。
堵车时的合影，有点伤自尊！http://www.517huwai.com/Public/Images/biaoqingqq/14.gif
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震后的映秀
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这是另一个绳队的高手--大石和北斗
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在巴郎山口状态良好，正在狂吃烤土豆的小莉莉
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两个家伙没安好心，又把我加在中间合影！http://www.517huwai.com/Public/Images/biaoqingqq/14.gif
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晚上到达海拔3200米左右的向花村，为了初步适应海拔，饭后不许睡觉，进行技术交流。
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10月3日，我们三人状态不错，早起无聊，参观拍照，等待出发。
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现代与古典并存的美丽小镇
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忙里偷闲，和莉莉切磋台球，小姑娘的技术水平堪称野案子高手，本人甘拜下风！
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开始装拖拉机，到大本营附近的牛棚可以偷懒坐一小段车。这是观光团的小土、咖啡和小新
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在户外界大名鼎鼎的--第七叶妹妹，他和大石、北斗一组
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莉莉领队的传统装扮
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我们的交通工具，遇到后半段道路危险，全部改为步行
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一边轻装徒步，一边欣赏美景，是件很惬意的事情
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莉莉小朋友在淘气！
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到达牛棚，海拔3600米，我们在攀登前的最后一个舒适营地。当天下午我们三人和另一个绳队的队友进行了冰缝救援（1/3和1/4系统）及行进保护的演练，可惜忙的都忘记拍照了，遗憾！
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10月4日，艰苦的一天开始了，10：30顶着飘飞的的雪花，背负着全部的登山器材和给养，开始1000多米的上升，今天的目标是海拔4600米的C1营地。
石海中的艰难上升
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回首我们走过的路
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在布满粉雪的陡坡和碎石中重装爬升，是件痛苦的事情，何况脚下还穿着沉重的高山靴！莉莉的状态让我吃惊，不但丝毫没有受到高反影响，而且体能充沛，一路冲在最前面，由于跑得快，还多走了不少冤枉路，搞得其他队友一直好奇的询问我她是不是专业运动员！雪越下越大，爬升的路也变得越发艰难和危险！下午五点多，队伍在C1营地下100米处发现了一个有水源的平台，由于雪况极不稳定，靠近山体容易受到雪崩的威胁，我们决定，在这个海拔4600米左右的平台上就地扎营
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天很快黑了下来，温度也在降低，为了防止失温，大家全都钻进帐篷，裹上睡袋开始化雪做饭。帐篷中的生活：莉莉生物钟奇准，到点就睡，而且用脚踹都不起，正好借此偷懒不做饭！
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海阔出现了一定程度的高反，正在顽强的适应！
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我正在任劳任怨的为大家做饭!
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睡梦中雪越下越大，后半夜远处山体沟槽的雪崩声隆隆作响，让人听的心惊肉跳！为了不让帐篷被雪压塌，要不时的起身拍打帐篷，就这样在警惕中度过了令人难忘的一夜！第二天大家都起的很早，我和大石、北斗挖雪做雪崩测试，情况非常不乐观，一层粉雪，二层融化雪，这是最不稳定的状态之一，在冰川上发生雪崩的可能性很大，大石和北斗做出的决定是下撤，尽管他们对雪崩的判断比我更有经验，但就这样下撤，实在是心有不甘，经过协商，决定由我们绳队向上探路，大石绳队做为救援保障待命。
瞌睡虫出帐热身
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出发前不忘作秀
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开始结组，操作熟练的海阔天空领攀，步伐稳健的莉莉殿后，能力体力最平常的我在中间。
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结组中的保护测试--我在保护莉莉
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这是莉莉在保护我
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行进间海阔用绳套设置休息的保护站，并保护我们靠近
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三人的安全都系于两条6mm辅绳
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海阔同学在用岩塞设置第二个保护站
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牢固的双岩塞保护站
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再往上，整个山体完全笼罩在浓雾当中，路线难以判断，出于安全考虑，我艰难的做出了下撤的决定，虽然心有不甘，但我明白：阿式登山本身就不以登顶为唯一目标，感受攀登的过程才是它的真谛所在，在这次攀登中，我们已经积累了很多宝贵的经验，也感受到这项运动所带来的无穷乐趣与动力，这已经足够了！
最后再来张合影
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绳降下撤，已接近营地
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休息中的娱乐，准备拔营
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来个特写，让小莉莉垂涎的高山靴，沙乐华公司的比赛奖品。说句公道话：品质相当不错，既轻便，又牢固，虽然是头次穿，却非常合脚，以后6000以下的自主登山就是它了！（非广告）
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放下心里的包袱，下撤就轻快多了，一路狂奔，下午六点左右下撤到牛棚。晚上大家把酒言欢直到深夜。
下撤途中
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第二天又是又是一路狂走，下到向花村，之后包车连夜赶回成都。休整一个白天，大家在卡拉OK引昂高歌，朋友间依依惜别！
回成都路上拍摄的幺妹峰，我的梦想！
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小莉莉的最爱，在成都豁出老命，闹着肚子陪她连吃两天！
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疯狂而热烈的长场面
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虽然龙脊的故事到此就结束了，但我们攀登的脚步不会停息，今后还会有更多有关极限运动的报告和游记呈上，感谢朋友们的关注！
全文结束
本帖最后由 lily.s 于 2012-10-17 11:43 编辑
单反拍↓
待传~
厉害厉害！ 好强大~~~真好看~~~ 冷 很多照片还未导出，待续 和尚Z水石风焰 发表于 2012-10-17 11:18 static/image/common/back.gif
好强大~~~真好看~~~
好看的明儿传，单反 {:4_119:}丽丽四川
